Princess cut diamond – Modern brilliance in a square shape
Known for their sharp geometry and intense sparkle, princess cut diamonds combine a square (or slightly rectangular) shape with brilliant facets, creating an expression that is both contemporary and timeless.
History and origins
The princess cut was developed in the 1980s as a modern alternative to the round brilliant. The goal was to combine a square silhouette with maximum light transmission – something that previously only rounded shapes could offer. Its design also makes efficient use of the rough diamond, which often makes princess cut stones affordable per carat.
Advantages of princess cut diamonds
- Modern aesthetics – the square shape gives a clear, stylish feel.
- High brilliance – second only to round brilliant in light reflection.
- Efficient material utilization – less waste during grinding → lower price per carat.
- Versatility – especially beautiful insolitaire or channel-set rings .
Proportions and ratios for princess cut diamonds
| Quality | Table % | Depth % | Ratio (length/width) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Excellent / Ideal | 65–75% | 65–75% | 1.00–1.03 |
| Very Good | 64–76% | 64–76% | 1.00–1.05 |
| Acceptable | 62–78% | 62–78% | 0.95–1.08 |
Tip: A ratio close to 1.00 gives a perfect square shape. Slightly rectangular stones (up to 1.05) can give a more elongated feel without compromising balance.
Size guide for princess cut diamonds
| Carat | Dimensions (approx. in mm) |
|---|---|
| 0.30 ct | 3.5 x 3.5 mm |
| 0.50 ct | 4.5 x 4.5 mm |
| 1.00 ct | 5.5 x 5.5 mm |
| 1.50 ct | 6.3 x 6.3 mm |
| 2.00 ct | 6.9 x 6.9 mm |
What should you consider when choosing a princess cut diamond?
Color: Due to their open facet structure, princess cut stones may show color at the corners. For white metal , D–H is recommended. For yellow gold , I–J or I–M work well.
Clarity: Corners are more sensitive to inclusions and impacts. For best results choose VS2–SI1 or higher . For even higher clarity, IF–FL is available.
Symmetry & protection: Since the corners are sharp, the stone should have good symmetry and be set in a protective setting (e.g. claw with protected corners).
Common settings for princess cut diamonds
- Solitaire – modern and sharp appearance.
- Halo – softens the straight lines with small stones around.
- Channel setting – perfect for wedding rings, with stones in a row.
- Side stones – balanced and luxurious effect.
Natural vs. Lab-Grown Princess Cut Diamonds
At Diamant Banken, we offer both natural and lab-grown princess cut diamonds – always with certificates, precise measurements and visual inspection. They are cut according to the same optical principles.
Easily filter our selection
Filter by princess cut, carat, color, clarity and certification. All stones have precise measurements in millimeters and 360° views, so you get the right sense of size and proportion.